A journey back to my roots: discovering the soul of Siruvallur
DR RAJENDRAN GOVENDER
NESTLED in the serene North Arcot district of Tamil Nadu lies Siruvallur, a quaint village that holds an extraordinary place in my heart. This is where my paternal grandparents, Tiruvengada Pillay (Indenture No. 138223) and Valliamma Pillay (Indenture No. 138224), began their journey before embarking on a voyage to South Africa aboard the Umfuli X in May 1908.
They were destined to work as indentured labourers on the Cecil Platt Estate in Isipingo. Over a century later, my wife Nirmala and I returned to the land of my forefathers to reconnect with our roots, experience the life they once knew, and celebrate the sacred festival of Pongal.
This journey was far more than a physical one - it was deeply emotional and transformative, filled with moments of joy, reflection, and newfound purpose.
Arriving in Siruvallur, we were greeted by the renaining head of the family, Mr Boopalen, and his gracious wife, Vigiammal, who hosted us during our stay. Mr Boopalen works at the local milk cooperative, a vital institution that sustains the community. Their home became the heart of our visit, where family members from cities across Tamil Nadu converged to celebrate Pongal together. This annual tradition is a time when the younger generation reconnects with their heritage, setting aside the fast-paced life of the cities to embrace the simplicity and authenticity of village life.
The highlight of our visit was Pongal, the harvest festival symbolising gratitude, prosperity, and togetherness. Celebrated over four days, Pongal in Siruvallur remains untouched by modernity, offering an experience that is both spiritual and cultural.
The first day, Bhogi Pongal, involves cleansing and renewal. Villagers lit bonfires to discard old belongings and welcome new beginnings. Homes were adorned with intricate and colourful kolams (rangoli) made from rice flour. Watching the women create these vibrant patterns at dawn was a humbling experience and a testament to their artistic talent.
On Thai Pongal, the second day, freshly harvested rice was cooked with milk and jaggery in clay pots. As the mixture overflowed, villagers chanted "Pongalo Pongal," offering gratitude to the Sun God. The air was filled with joy and unity.
The third day, Mattu Pongal, honours cattle, the backbone of agrarian life. A grand cow race, with beautifully adorned cattle, was a spectacle that united villagers from far and wide. More than a competition, it was a cultural celebration, bringing together people dressed in vibrant attire to rejoice in harmony.
The festivities culminated on Kaanum Pongal with Anadanam, where sumptuous meals were served at temples for everyone, including the underprivileged. This act of generosity exemplified the unity and compassion that define village life. A grand evening procession of six ornately decorated deities through the village streets was a spiritual and emotional finale that left an indelible impression.
Life in Siruvallur is simple, pure, and deeply fulfilling. The local temple serves not only as a place of worship but also as a meeting ground for planning village events and resolving disputes amicably. It was heartening to see how the temple fosters unity and harmony, acting as the cornerstone of the community.
Walking through the village, I marvelled at the close-knit relationships. Strangers welcomed us with freshly brewed coffee, their hospitality a testament to the warmth of rural life. Children played joyfully in the streets, while neighbours stopped to exchange pleasantries. Visiting the local shops and markets revealed a commitment to freshness and wholesomeness that city life often lacks.
Each morning began with a traditional bath using water heated over a fire, followed by South Indian breakfasts served on banana leaves. These rituals, though simple, were profoundly enriching, immersing us in the rhythms of village life.
One of the most poignant realisations was the enduring connection young professionals maintain with Siruvallur. Despite their urban lifestyles, they return regularly to honour traditions and contribute to the village's well-being. This dedication to preserving heritage resonated deeply with me, inspiring a newfound sense of purpose.
In reconnecting with the land of my grandparents, I found closure and a profound sense of belonging. Unlike my forebears, who left with uncertainty and hope, I had the privilege of returning and experiencing the life they once knew. It felt as though I was fulfilling the dreams of Tiruvengada and Valliamma Pillay, bringing their legacy full circle.
As I prepared to leave Siruvallur, it was with a heavy heart. The simplicity, warmth, and unity of village life stood in stark contrast to the challenges of city living - crime, service disruptions, and relentless pace. Yet, I departed with a renewed determination to honour my heritage and keep the spirit of Siruvallur alive.
Later this year, with the living Tiruvengada clan, I plan to organise a reunion of the immediate and extended family of Tiruvengada and Valliamma Pillay in South Africa. This gathering will serve as an opportunity to share my experiences and educate younger generations about their roots. By connecting with our past, we can inspire future generations to value their heritage and draw strength from it.
Siruvallur has left an indelible mark on my heart. Its unspoiled beauty, the genuine kindness of its people, and the enduring traditions have taught me invaluable lessons about gratitude, community, and staying connected to one’s roots.
As I return to the chaos of city life, I carry with me the serenity of Siruvallur—the morning temple music, vibrant kolams, the taste of fresh coffee, and the unwavering
spirit of its people. These memories will serve as a beacon of hope and a reminder that, in a world consumed by complexity, the simplest things hold the greatest value.
Siruvallur is not just the village of my forefathers; it is a part of my soul. Through this journey, I have not only honoured my ancestors but also discovered a new way to live—with gratitude, humility, and a heart full of love for the simpler, purer things in life.
Dr Rajendran Govender is a social anthropologist and researcher; Commissioner at the CRL Rights Commission; and a social cohesion advocate.
** The views expressed do not necessarily reflect the views of IOL or Independent Media.