Why chemical peels are a game-changer and what you need to know according to a formulation scientist
In 2018, chemical peels surged in popularity, ranking third among minimally invasive cosmetic procedures, just behind Botox and soft tissue fillers.
With over 1.38 million treatments performed, it's clear that chemical peels have become a go-to solution for those seeking radiant, youthful skin. But why are so many people opting for this treatment?
Independent Media Lifestyle reached out to Dr Lehlonono Makhekhe, a board-certified dermatologist and formulation scientist for Epicutis Skincare Range, to get the scoop on what makes chemical peels so special.
What exactly is a chemical peel?
A chemical peel involves exfoliating the skin's top layers using various chemical substances. "The process often leads to controlled, intentional skin damage, which prompts skin cells to remodel and regenerate.
“The result is younger, radiant, and smoother skin with improved texture and appearance," Makhekhe explained.
The chemicals used in peels, such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, trichloroacetic acid, and phenol oil, vary depending on the desired outcome. "The inflammation following a peel can range from minimal to marked, based on skin type, active ingredients, and procedure duration.
“This controlled inflammation is what triggers the rejuvenation process.”
Why choose a chemical peel?
Chemical peels offer numerous benefits, making them a favourite not just among celebrities but also for anyone looking to enhance their skin.
Here are a few reasons why people love chemical peels:
Improve skin texture, peels help smooth out rough skin, giving it a soft and silky feel.
Reduces fine lines and wrinkles, by promoting collagen production, peels can diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Even skin tone peels can reduce hyperpigmentation, age spots, and acne scars, leading to a more even skin tone.
Radiant glow, the exfoliation process removes dead skin cells, revealing a fresh, radiant complexion underneath.
Best chemical peels for beginners
If you’re new to chemical peels, it’s important to start with the right type of peel. "The choice of peel depends on your clinical objectives," said Makhekhe.
“For beginners, I recommend starting with milder peels that use glycolic acid or salicylic acid. These are great for improving texture and tone with minimal irritation."
Glycolic acid peels are known for their ability to brighten and smooth the skin, while salicylic acid peels are excellent for acne-prone skin. Both types of peels are gentle enough for first-timers but effective enough to show visible results.
Salicylic acid peels are great for those with oily or acne-prone skin, this peel helps unclog pores and reduce breakouts.
"There are two main reasons people get chemical peels: medical and cosmetic," explained Makhekhe.
"Medically, peels can treat active acne, acne scars, and pigmentary conditions like melasma. Cosmetically, they help with ageing skin, sun damage, and even pre-cancerous skin tags known as actinic keratosis."
Chemical peels come in different strengths and types, depending on what you're trying to achieve. Here’s a quick breakdown:
Light peels
These use mild acids like alpha hydroxy acid to gently exfoliate. They’re great for improving the appearance of rough skin and mild discolouration.
Medium peels
These penetrate the outer and middle layers of skin, using acids like glycolic or trichloroacetic acid. They’re effective for age spots, fine lines and moderate skin discolouration.
Deep peels
These use stronger acids like phenol to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin. They’re typically used for deeper wrinkles, significant sun damage and scars.
"The depth of the peel determines the recovery time. Deeper peels might require a longer recovery, but they also provide more dramatic results," explained the formulation scientist.
While chemical peels are generally safe, it's essential to know your skin and any potential allergies.
"If you have known allergies to any active ingredients, it's best to avoid those peels," advised Makhekhe. "Also, deep peels should be avoided during pregnancy, lactation, and if you have certain health conditions like liver or renal disease."
Your dermatologist will take a detailed medical history and conduct a thorough skin examination before proceeding. This helps rule out any active infections or skin conditions that could complicate the peel.
One of the great things about chemical peels is that they can be tailored to your specific needs.
"Clinicians often test a small area of skin first to check for adverse reactions," said Makhekhe. "This helps ensure that the full treatment will be safe and effective."
He emphasised the importance of creating skincare products from a specialist's perspective. "Most skincare products in South Africa are developed by individuals who are not specialists in dermatology.
"Having specialised in dermatology and formulation science, I understand the needs of people and the harsh African climate. This knowledge is crucial in developing products that truly benefit the skin."
He stressed that unrealistic expectations and improper treatment are common pitfalls. "It’s crucial to see a qualified professional who understands your skin type and medical history."
Post-peel care is just as important as the treatment itself. Without proper care, you might experience complications like sun sensitivity, infections, swelling, burning sensations or worsening blemishes.
When applied correctly and for the right reasons, chemical peels can be transformative.
As Makhekhe puts it: "Knowledge of both benefits and dangers is essential."
So, before you book your first peel, make sure you consult with a qualified professional to ensure you're making the best choice for your skin.