Burberry revives Amy Winehouse's vibe for her new show in London
Every season, the Burberry show is undoubtedly one of the most anticipated of London Fashion Week.
To unveil his autumn-winter 2024-2025 collection, Daniel Lee, appointed artistic director of the English label in September 2022, invited his audience to sit under a large tent in a city park where the rows of seats had been arranged in the dark on synthetic grass.
Here is everything you need to remember from this new Burberry show.
Details of the Burberry autumn-winter 2024-2025 show
The tribute to Amy Winehouse
It was on the first notes (or rather the first words) of the title "You Know I'm No Good" by English singer Amy Winehouse that the parade opened.
The flagship piece of the successful 2006 album Back to Black, the songs of the artist who passed away tragically on July 23, 2011 followed one another, on which were superimposed voice-over excerpts highlighting Amy Winehouse's love for London.
The final of the parade ended with the heady notes of the title "Back to Black". Chills guaranteed.
The Burberry family
Who else but the queen of English cool to open this new Burberry show? It was to Agyness Deyn, a top model of the 2000s with a brilliant career, that returned the honor of launching the festivities.
She, who had been away from the catwalks for several years, had made her return to the light during the Sacai show last October at Paris Fashion Week.
Behind her, many familiar and emblematic faces of Burberry's history have followed suit with Lily Donaldson, Malaika Firth, Neelam Gill, Lily Cole or Naomi Campbell. On the first row, Cara Delevingne or Jourdan Dunn, also veterans of the English claw, had made the trip to support Daniel Lee.
The hegemony of green
Like the floor that covered the podium of his new parade, Daniel Lee focused on mineral and natural shades to illustrate his next winter wardrobe. In particular, green occupies a prominent place as it is declined in all forms (khaki, fern, duck, forest, etc.).
Multiple ways of interpreting the colour of hope alongside elks of brown, sand or black that also punctuated this collection. The traditional red or beige tartan, Burberry's emblem, was also present but distilled sparingly.
Like a shell
Among Daniel Lee's Burberry men, coats were undoubtedly the stars of this latest show, including military-inspired outerwear. Buttoned on the side with its high collar and shoulder pads, the officer's coat is an essential for next winter.
At his side, duffle coats, cabans, parkas, bombers and other costume jackets highlight this feeling of protection instilled in the dressing room of the English designer.
All this is available in new material games of which Daniel Lee has become the great specialist since his tenure at Bottega Veneta between 2018 and 2021.
The return of the damn
Wouldn't Daniel Lee have dwelled on photos of Queen Elizabeth II in rainy weather with her scarf on her head? This is what one might think because many tartan scarves were tied like a fichu around the face of several models from the show. A sign that it's time to find a new use to your famous Burberry accessory that you usually wear at your neck?
[Via GQ France]