Expert Advice on Incorporating Hair Care into Your Beauty Schedule, Image: AdobeStock
How Often Should You Wash Your Hair? Experts Weigh In
It all depends on your hair type.
While “How often should you wash your hair?” is one of the most commonly asked beauty questions, experts assert there’s not one right answer. Even hair care rules that seem universal aren’t always one-size-fits-all.
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“The truth is there is no one answer to how often you should wash your hair,” Michele Green, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in New York City, tells Glamour. “Overwashing your hair can strip the hair follicles of their natural oils and signal to the body to produce more oil on the scalp, but underwashing your hair can lead to a buildup of grease, sweat, and product on your strands. Finding the balance between the two is crucial to having healthy hair follicles and strands.”
Finding that balance isn’t impossible, though. It just depends on your unique hair type and lifestyle. If your hair tends to get greasy, for example, you’ll likely want to wash it a few times a week—or anytime you feel like you need to—and maybe even double-shampoo a few times too. If your hair is dry, coarse, or textured, however, shampooing that often could dry it out, and double-cleansing isn’t always advised. Washing hair every day isn’t good for anyone—yes, even those that are oily. However, you don’t want to rely on dry shampoo too much.
If this feels hard to keep up with, don’t fret. Glamour asked top dermatologists and hairstylists all about shampooing and conditioning for each hair type, plus when and how to double-wash and use clarifying shampoo. Soon you’ll never have to google “How often should you wash your hair?” again.
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While how often to shampoo and condition depends on your hair type, Paul Labrecque, creative director, master stylist, and colorist with Paul Labrecque Salon and Skincare Spa, says there is one fairly universal rule: Shampoo only when your hair is “truly dirty.”
“You should only wash your hair specifically when your strands are truly dirty. That’s the best rule to follow,” Labrecque says. “Your own oil flow will determine this, and since every person is different, that timing will differ for each individual.”
That’s where your actual hair type comes in. “Different hair types have different needs,” says celebrity hairstylist and L’Oréal Professionnel global ambassador Min Kim, and every expert interviewed for this story agrees. The breakdown by (general) hair type is as follows.
“People with thin hair and oily hair might find the need to wash their hair more frequently, perhaps every other day or every third day,” Kim says. “This is because the oil (or sebum) produced by the scalp can easily weigh down fine hair, making it look greasy.”
For this type of hair, Labrecque recommends shampoo specifically for oily hair types, his favorite of which is Biologique Recherche’s Shampooing Traitant Sébo-Rééquilibrant. To find one that works for you, shop for “oil-free” or “balancing” options that are formulated for greasy hair and scalps.
“If your hair is average oiliness, I recommend washing typically every two to three days,” says celebrity hairstylist Jennifer Korab. “I suggest you determine the number of times you shampoo and condition by the texture and feel of your hair.”
Korab’s go-to shampoo? “My favorite shampoo and condition is Pureology Hydrate,” she says. “I love this, as it is good for all hair types.”
For another Glamour-editor favorite, try Rōz Foundation Shampoo.
“Those with thick and dry hair can often go longer between washes, sometimes even a week or more,” says Kim. “Their hair doesn’t get oily quickly, and frequent washing can strip the hair of its natural oils, making it even drier.” Kim recommends L’Oréal's Metal Detox for most hair lengths and textures, and Glamour editors with thick hair swear by Better Not Younger Bounce Back Super Moisturizing Shampoo.
If you suffer from dandruff, it’s not about how often you wash, but more so about the shampoo you’re using. After all, dandruff is one of the leading causes of a dry scalp. “Dandruff is caused by a skin condition called seborrheic dermatitis, which has been linked to a yeast called malessezia that is naturally present on the skin,” says Iris Rubin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Seen Hair Care. “For dryness and flaking caused by seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff shampoos, which include ingredients such as ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, salicylic acid, or zinc pyrithione, can be a big help.”
That being said, washing your hair less could be helpful. Caroline Robinson, MD, a board-certified dermatolopgist, adds that if you’re over- and under-washing, switching up how often you wash could help too, “depending on your hair type,” she says. “Dry scalp can be managed by using an exfoliating shampoo that’s gentle enough to use every hair-wash day or an extra-strength exfoliating shampoo once every two weeks.”
While there’s no “cure” for seborrheic dermatitis, there are some ways to manage the scalp condition. Chief among them: a quality dandruff shampoo. There are a number of over-the-counter shampoos available at any drugstore that contain effective antifungal ingredients to decrease the malassezia and thereby decrease the inflammatory response, says Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC.
“While we do not completely understand all of the causes of dandruff, we do know that the oils on our skin [sebum], a friendly yeast that lives there [malassezia], and our sensitivity to the interaction between the two can all play a role in how likely we are to get dandruff,” says Caroline Robinson, MD, a board-certified medical and cosmetic dermatologist. “Areas of high sebum production such as the scalp, parts of the face, and the center of the chest are the most common areas where we see dandruff.”
Hairstylist Nubia Rëzo recommends washing hair just once a week for optimum health, making sure to thoroughly cleanse and exfoliate the scalp to prevent excess buildup.
“Don’t shampoo your hair more than once a week because this can strip natural oils away that keep hair hydrated and healthy,” she says. “A good technique to keep in mind while shampooing is to gently apply pressure using the balls of your fingers to massage the scalp and really get the blood flow pumping.”
Kim agrees adding that textured and curly hair is often drier than straight hair. “It’s generally recommended to wash it once a week or even less frequently,” says Kim. “Overwashing can lead to frizzy hair strands and dryness.”
One of Kim’s favorite options for this hair type is L’Oréal Professionnel Curl Expression Anti Buildup Shampoo. “L’Oréal Professionnel Curl Expression for curly or coily hair has an amazing clarifying shampoo that can be used for all hair types and textures,” she says. Another Glamour favorite is Briogeo’s Curl Charisma Hydrating Shampoo.
For those wearing their hair in protective styles, experts suggest washing hair every other week, refreshing the scalp every seven days. It’s also advised you use a co-wash (the term is short for conditioner washing), as opposed to other types of shampoo.
“Shampoo can be too stripping for the mid-shaft to end, so interchanging and putting them in between your conditioners might be a kinder alternative,” says Renee Kadar, global artistic director of texture for Aveda. Glamour recommends Function of Beauty Coily Hair Co-Wash, as well as Pattern Beauty’s Deep Scalp Detox as a weekly refresh in between wash days and/or preshampoo treatment. Another option is an apple cider vinegar rinse.
Yes, there is a right way to do it. “When shampooing, you should focus on massaging the scalp to prevent product buildup, excess oil, and dirt from clogging hair follicles,” says Green.
Other shampooing rules to follow? “Choose the right products. It’s essential to select a shampoo and conditioner tailored to your hair type and concerns,” says Kim, who also says to focus on the scalp. “The suds will cleanse the lengths as they’re rinsed out.”
Something else to consider is that temperature matters in the shower. “Rinse your hair with lukewarm or cool water. Hot water can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause dryness,” Kim says, advising to shampoo with care. “Avoid aggressive scrubbing or wringing. Instead, pat your hair dry with a towel.” Showering with water that’s too hot can also cause split ends and breakage.
Finally, there’s how to use conditioner: Should you use it every time you shampoo? “It is best to condition your hair every time you wash it,” says Green. “Shampooing the hair is excellent for cleansing and clarifying, but it can dry out and dehydrate strands. Conditioners work to replenish lost moisture in the strands and seal nutrients into the cuticles.” That said, Korab notes that some people with especially oily or greasy hair may opt to condition every other wash.
Double and even triple hair washing are frequent sources of hair care debate. Are you really supposed to shampoo twice every time you shower? “I recommend double-washing your hair with every other shampoo,” says Korab. “I feel if you double-wash it every time, you could be removing more oils than necessary.”
That’s only if you want to, though. “The double-wash method, where you shampoo your hair twice in one session, is often touted for its ability to ensure the hair is thoroughly clean, especially if you use styling products regularly,” Kim says. “However, it’'s not necessary for everyone. If you have very oily hair or use heavy products, a double wash once a week can be beneficial. For others, a single wash is sufficient.”
Whether or not you double-cleanse also depends on how often you wash your hair. “If you wash too frequently, shampoo only once each time you do,” says Labrecque.
If your hair is on the greasier side, it’s also advised you use a weekly clarifying shampoo. “Incorporate a clarifying shampoo or a cleansing conditioner into your weekly routine to remove product buildup and excess oil,” says Kim. Just be careful not to overuse it, as it can strip the hair of moisture (remember, oily doesn’t equal hydrated, and vice versa).
Green agrees, and recommends Bumble and Bumble’s Sunday Shampoo as her weekly clarifying cleanser of choice. “Use it once a week to remove any excess oil, dirt, and product residue from the scalp,” she says. “Additionally, this shampoo has a lightweight formula to avoid weighing down hair.” For a color-safe, nonstripping option, try K18 Peptide Prep Color-Safe Detox Clarifying Shampoo.
Original article appeared on GLAMOUR US
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